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Are you well-versed in the skincare active ingredient dictionary? From salicylic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C to hyaluronic acid, there are multiple skincare ingredients that play an essential role in maintaining your skin health. But, not every ingredient suits every skin type and using the wrong one may do more harm than good. Therefore, a better understanding of each ingredient can help you build an effective skincare routine. If you are confused about how to choose the right one, we have curated this guide containing dermatologist tips to make things easier for you. So, get ready to get glowing and healthy skin by using the right ingredients.
Before choosing a skincare active, it is important to understand your skin type as each one has different needs and tolerance levels:
1. Oily skin: This skin type produces excess oil, and is prone to acne and large pores.
2. Dry skin: People with dry skin may experience tightness, roughness and flakiness.
3. Combination skin: It combines the features of oily and dry skin. This skin type is oily in the T-zone and dry in other areas.
4. Sensitive skin: It reacts quickly and easily to skincare products and often experiences redness and irritation.
5. Normal skin: People with normal skin are surely God’s favourite children. This skin type is well-balanced.
To maintain the health of your skin, it is important to understand your skin type first. Dermatologist, Dr Mikki Singh suggests a few tips for this:
To make the most out of a skincare ingredient, it is important to pick the right one:
Salicylic acid can exfoliate inside pores, remove excess oil and prevent clogged pores. Integrative Medicine states that salicylic acid can treat mild to moderate acne vulgaris.
“It may help to reduce oil production, even out skin, reduce pores and brighten complexion,” says the expert. Dermatologic Surgery states that it can improve the appearance of skin wrinkles and elasticity.
“This skincare active may brighten the skin, fade dark spots, boost collagen and reduce pigmentation,” says the expert. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology states that vitamin C can protect against anti-ageing effects by increasing collagen synthesis and stabilising collagen fibers.
It may inhibit melanin production, leading to clearer skin. Using a kojic-acid based skincare product may help fade dark spots, reduce hyperpigmentation and make your skin look brighter.
Also Read: Best salicylic acid face wash for oily skin: 10 picks for clear skin
It may attract and retain moisture in the skin. Dermatologic Therapy states that this skincare active can improve skin moisture. “It may offer deep hydration, plumps skin and reduces fine lines,” says the expert.
“It may increase cell turnover, smooth wrinkles and treat acne,” says the expert. A study published in Biomelocules states that it may enhance skin texture and augment the thickness of epidermal and dermal layers.
“This skincare active may remove dead skin cells and boost radiance,” says the expert. Additionally, glycolic acid may help brighten complexion and improve skin texture for a radiant glow.
“This skincare active may strengthen skin barrier, lock in moisture and soothe irritation,” says the expert. A study published in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatologists states that it can enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.
Different skincare actives target specific concerns effectively. Dr. Singh suggests salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, and retinol for acne. Vitamin C, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid help with hyperpigmentation. Fine lines improve with retinol, peptides, and growth factors. AHAs and niacinamide enhance texture, while ceramides, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid hydrate and soothe sensitive or dry skin.
Choosing the right skincare active is essential to maintain the health of your skin. Here is how you can choose as per your skin type:
Oily skin produces excess oil. “opt for an ingredient like salicylic acid to reduce blackheads and breakouts. Moreover, you may also use niacinamide and retinol to regulate oil production, minimise pores, soothe inflammation and kill acne-causing bacteria,” says the expert.
“People with dry and dehydrated skin may benefit from ingredients like hyaluronic acid, squalane and ceramides,” adds the expert. They may help lock in moisture, prevent dryness, strengthen the skin barrier and tackle flakiness and irritation.
“If you have sensitive skin, opt for skincare products that contain aloe vera, centella asiatica, green tea extract and panthenol,” says Dr Singh. They may soothe irritation, reduce redness, calm inflammation and protect against environmental stressors.
“To maintain the health of combination skin, opt for skincare products like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid,” says the expert. These ingredients may balance oil in the T-zone, hydrate dry areas and gently exfoliate the skin.
“For mature and ageing skin, retinol, vitamin C and peptides are best,” suggests Dr Singh. They may boost collagen, reduce wrinkles, and pigmentation, repair damaged skin, improve skin texture, elasticity and protect against free radicals.
To keep your skin healthy, it is important to use the right skincare active. Dr Singh suggests how to use these actives correctly:
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"Start with water-based actives (like serums) and end with oils or creams," says Dr Mikki Singh. Avoid harsh combinations like retinol and AHAs. Hydrate your skin perfectly and make sure to keep a gap of 30-60 seconds between layers of absorption.
Yes, some active combos work well like niacinamide and hyaluronic. "However, avoid using retinol and AHAs/BHAs and Vitamin C + AHAs/BHAs together to prevent irritation," says Dr Mikki Singh.
If you notice any side effects, stop using it immediately and apply soothing ingredients like aloe vera. Consult with your dermatologist for better guidance.
Yes, but it depends on the type of active ingredient. For instance, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C can be used daily. However, strong actives like retinol, AHAs and benzoyl peroxide can be used 2-3 times weekly.
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