Does retinol really turn back time for your skin? Know how this skincare ingredient helps

While ageing is a process no one can defy, certain skincare ingredients such as retinol can help you deal with skin problems. It can be your one-stop solution that helps improve your skin and its texture. Be it its power to prevent wrinkles, remove fine lines or treat pigmentation, this derivative of vitamin A comes with a host of benefits. It is also a popular treatment when it comes to acne as well as other skin conditions such as psoriasis. However, using retinol on your skin cannot be done casually, as it can lead to some serious side effects. Here are some of the best ways retinol can help your skin and how to use it safely.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a type of vitamin A which is used in skincare products. It is known for its anti-ageing, acne-fighting, and skin-renewing properties. The vitamin is part of the retinoid family and has both stronger and milder versions. “Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A, used in skin care products to promote cell turnover and skin renewal,” explains dermatologist Dr Kalpana Sarangi. Besides this, it can also help promote collagen production and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Other benefits of using the vitamin include its ability to unclog pores prevent as well as and treat acne. It can also help with hyperpigmentation and sun damage.

Benefits of retinol

This derivative of vitamin A can do wonders for our skin. Here is how it helps keep our skin healthy and glowing:

1. Anti-ageing properties

Retinol is known to work at the cellular level and reduce fine lines as well as wrinkles. A study published in the journal Clinical Interventions in Aging observed that regular use of a retinol formulation for 12 weeks resulted in significant improvement in fine wrinkles in participants. It also helps with skin discolouration.

2. Cell turnover

This means that retinol helps to promote cell renewal.  It can also lighten pigmentation. This cell turnover leads to the removal of pigmented cells. These dark spots are peeled off, and brighter skin replaces them. Therefore, it is a good cure for hyperpigmentation as well. A study published in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology states that retinol is used for many pigmentation disorders, such as melasma. It has also proved to be successful in reducing hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of colour.

3. Collagen production

It helps to stimulate collagen in the skin. Collagen is the protein that keeps skin firm, plump, and youthful. There are many benefits of collagen, including its power to improve skin elasticity and bring in a certain level of firmness. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to wrinkles and sagging. However, retinol can help in restoring it by activating fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Besides this, it also helps to block enzymes (MMPs) that degrade collagen in our skin.

4. Acne treatment

When it comes to acne, this is a popular choice of treatment. “It helps unclog pores, reducing acne and preventing future breakouts,” says Dr Sarangi. As it is a derivative of Vitamin A, it works by targeting the root causes of acne. Thanks to its ability to promote cell turnover, it helps to shed off dead skin cells and prevents them from getting clogged. This can also result in a reduction of blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Besides this, it also helps to control excessive oil production, which is one of the main causes of acne.

5. Hydrates skin

It also helps to keep your skin hydrated. It promotes the strengthening of the skin’s protective barrier as well as improves moisture retention. Retinol also boosts ceramide production. This helps to fortify the skin barrier and prevents moisture loss. It helps in exfoliation as it removes dead skin buildup. This allows hydrating products to penetrate deeper. This can also be combined with other hydrating ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, to prevent dryness and irritation.

Types of retinol

Different types of retinol are available today in the form of serums and creams.

• Retinol (OTC): This is the retinol that is used in skincare routines. This is milder and better suited for beginners and those with sensitive skin. This needs to be converted into retinoic acid within the skin before it becomes active. This gradual conversion makes it less irritating but also means it takes longer to show results
• Retinoic acid (prescription): This is an active form of vitamin A and the most potent type of retinoid that is used for more severe skin concerns. This does not need any conversion and works immediately. It helps in delivering faster and more dramatic results for acne, ageing, and hyperpigmentation.
• Retinyl palmitate (gentle): This is the mildest form of vitamin A and is used in sensitive skin products. It is used in anti-ageing creams, serums, and moisturizers designed for sensitive skin or beginners. Retinyl palmitate must be converted into retinol in the skin for it to work and works gradually. Since it’s less potent, it’s great for sensitive skin or those who can’t tolerate stronger retinoids.

How to use retinol?

While there are a lot of benefits of this derivative of vitamin A, it needs to be used in the correct way. Here is what you must do:

• Make sure your face is clean: It is important to wash your face well using a gentle, hydrating cleanser. Make sure to avoid harsh exfoliants. Once your face is clean, pat your skin dry completely.
• Apply a small amount: Make sure to use just a small pea-sized amount of solution for your entire face. Avoid the eye area, nostrils, and lips, as these areas are extra sensitive. Application in these areas can lead to irritation. “Begin with a lower concentration (0.25%),” explains Dr Sarangi.
• Moisturise: It is important to now follow up with a hydrating moisturizer. This will help to prevent dryness or flaking. If you have sensitive skin, apply a moisturizer first, then retinol and then another layer of moisturizer.
• Don’t forget sunscreen: Application can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, follow up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen in the morning, explains Dr Sarangi. Apply SPF 30+ every morning.

Side effects of retinol

There are some risks associated with the use of retinol on your skin.

• Dryness: This derivative of vitamin A is known to get rid of dead skin cells, leading to flaky, dry skin.
  Irritation: The application can speed up cell turnover. This, in turn, can lead to redness, inflammation, and sensitivity.
• Photosensitivity: Application can lead to the thinning of the top layer of skin, making it more prone to sunburn and UV damage.
• Itching: It can be too harsh, especially for sensitive skin or when combined with other active ingredients. This may result in itching or burning.
• Possible breakouts: Since application leads to cell turnover, you might have some acne breakouts initially.

  

Precautions to keep in mind

While retinol can help your skin in many ways, there are some precautions that need to be kept in mind.

• If you have sensitive skin, make sure to start with a lower concentration.
• It should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
• Make sure to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 or more.
• It should be used only twice a week, and the frequency should be gradually increased.
• Do not mix this with other harsh actives such as Benzoyl Peroxide, AHAs & BHAs and Vitamin C.
• Doing a patch test is very important. Apply a small amount on your inner forearm and wait 24 hours. If no irritation occurs, apply it to your face.

Be it acne breakouts, wrinkles or fine lines, retinol is quite an effective solution for your skincare needs. However, while it has many benefits, the application also comes with a considerable number of risks. Therefore, consulting a doctor before use and doing a patch test becomes important to ascertain skin sensitivity.