Derma roller for hair growth: Does it work?

In a quest to regrow hair, many people are turning to hair care solutions that can help them combat hair loss and hair fall. One such solution is the use of a derma roller. This device, which has a handle on one end, and a roller with several tiny needles on the other, can be easily used at home. It involves rolling those needles all over the scalp. It sounds scary and painful. Naturally, you will wonder if using a derma roller for hair growth is effective and safe? Let’s find out if this device, known for tackling skin issues such as acne, can be beneficial for people experiencing hair loss or not.

What is a derma roller?

It is a handheld device with a drum-like structure covered in tiny needles, typically ranging from 0.2 to 2.5 mm in length. “When rolled over the skin or scalp, the device creates micro-injuries that trigger the natural healing process of the body. This promotes the production of collagen and elastin, and enhances blood flow,” says cosmetic and aesthetic surgeon Dr Shweta Mishra.

It also improves the absorption of skincare or haircare products, making it a popular tool in aesthetic medicine. Derma roller was initially introduced for skin rejuvenation, but now it can help to deal with acne, acne scars, burn scars, and stretch marks, according to a 2016 research published in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal.

Derma roller for hair growth: How does it help?

Using a derma roller for hair growth may work. It is effective in treating hair loss, according to a 2016 research published in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal. Here are the benefits of using a derma roller for hair growth:

• The micro-injuries created by a derma roller on the scalp increases blood flow to the hair follicles, providing essential nutrients and oxygen for hair growth.
• It activates collagen production, which strengthens the scalp and hair structure.
• It enhances the penetration of topical treatments like minoxidil. “This amplifies their effectiveness and encourages dormant hair follicles to re-enter the growth phase,” says the expert. During a 2013 study published in the International Journal Of Trichology, using a derma roller with minoxidil was found to be more effective than using just minoxidil for hair growth.

“Typically, noticeable improvements, such as reduced hair fall and the appearance of baby hair, may take 8 to 12 weeks of regular use combined with a proper haircare routine,” says Dr Mishra. New hair formation may commence after using a derma roller 8 to 10 times, as per a 2020 study published in the Biomedical Microdevices journal. For significant regrowth, it may take up to 6 months, but hair growth is a gradual process. So, patience and consistency are key when using a derma roller for hair growth.

How to choose the right derma roller for hair growth?

1. Needle size

The needle size is crucial when choosing a derma roller for hair growth. “For beginners or those with mild to moderate hair thinning, a 0.5 mm roller is ideal, as it penetrates the scalp surface effectively without causing discomfort,” says the expert. For more severe hair loss or several bald patches, a 1.0 mm roller may be more effective, but it requires caution and professional advice to avoid scalp damage.

2. Material

Choose derma rollers with high-quality needles made of titanium or medical-grade stainless steel. Titanium needles are durable and retain sharpness longer, while stainless steel is more hygienic and easier to sterilise. “Both options are safe, but quality ensures better results and reduces the risk of infection,” says Dr Mishra.

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3. Frequency

If you plan to use the derma roller frequently, a smaller needle size (like 0.5 mm) is more suitable since it requires less recovery time. “Larger needles, such as 1.0 mm, need longer intervals (2-3 weeks) between sessions, as they penetrate deeper and take more time for the scalp to heal,” says the expert.

4. Brand quality

Opt for reputable brands of derma rollers to ensure safety, durability, and effectiveness. High-quality derma rollers are designed with precision to avoid uneven or excessive penetration, reducing the risk of skin damage or irritation.

5. Scalp condition

Check your scalp’s sensitivity and overall health before using a derma roller for hair growth. If you have a sensitive scalp, start with a smaller needle size and consult a specialist for guidance. “People with scalp infections or conditions like eczema, and psoriasis should avoid using derma rollers until a dermatologist gives the green signal,” says the expert.

What to apply after using a derma roller for hair growth?

After using the derma roller, it is vital to maximise benefits and prevent irritation. Here are some suitable options you can go for after using a derma roller for hair growth:

• Hair growth serums: Apply serums containing minoxidil, or peptides soon after using a derma roller for hair growth. “The micro-channels created by the derma roller enhance their absorption, making them more effective at stimulating hair growth,” says the expert.
• Soothing agents: Use calming products like aloe vera gel or hyaluronic acid to soothe the scalp, reduce redness, and promote hydration. These also create a protective barrier over the sensitive area.
• Antioxidants: Products with vitamins C or E can protect the scalp from oxidative stress and support the healing process.
• Avoid heavy or irritating products: Refrain from applying hair oils, alcohol-based solutions, or fragranced products immediately after using a derma roller for hair growth, as they can clog the micro-channels, cause irritation, or even lead to infection.
• Hair sunscreen: If you step outside, apply a non-comedogenic hair sunscreen to shield it from ultraviolet rays’ damage.

Are there any side effects of using a derma roller for hair growth?

Derma rolling is generally safe, but improper use or poor hygiene can lead to the following side effects:

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• Scalp redness and irritation: Temporary redness or sensitivity is the most common side effect due to the micro-injuries created by the needles. This usually subsides within 24 to 48 hours, especially when smaller needle sizes are used.
• Bleeding: Larger needles (like 1.0 mm or above) or excessive pressure during rolling can cause minor bleeding. “This may be normal for deeper penetration, but should be minimal and controlled,” says the expert.
• Infection: If the derma roller or scalp is not properly cleaned before use, bacteria can enter the micro-injuries, leading to infections. It’s crucial to disinfect the derma roller and ensure the scalp is clean before and after the procedure.
• Worsening of scalp conditions: People with scalp disorders such as seborrheic dermatitis should avoid using a derma roller for hair growth unless advised by a specialist. It can aggravate the scalp conditions and delay healing.
• Allergic reactions: Using harsh or unsuitable products after derma rolling can cause allergic reactions, as the scalp is highly sensitive post-treatment.

Using a derma roller for hair growth may work, but follow proper hygiene practices, and use appropriate needle sizes. Also, before using the device, consult an expert, especially if you have underlying scalp concerns.